The second day of the most glam event in Milano had to be a successful one, with another shebang of designers teaching us a good lesson of what’s going to be cool next winter!
Prada was one of them, and the Italian mega-brand famous for the loveable and uber-chic handbags ended up with a very tamed collection. Prada for instance can be very unpredictable, coming up with great collections one season and with very forgettable ones the other and in this case I found it very pale and lifeless.
Of course there were a streaks of creativity here and there, we see once again a comeback of the Leather brogues – remember the flower oxford shoes with the sharp cut – in different colors but with no pattern on them. Still very classy, elegant and versatile that can be used for different occasions.
We get to see a lot of clean-cut tailoring, and narrow trousers with a smaller leg to reveal the socks, simple crewneck jumpers and t-shirts are also very common from one outfit to another. Let’s not forget about the blazers – I am in awe about the scarlett red one on the picture above – and the winter coats that are a predicament for the brand founded in Milano. Still, comparing this season to the past ones – even the F/W 12 for instance -, we get a more bland and almost tasteless collection that hardly managed to deliver this time around.
Even if Prada‘s collection didn’t come up with that bang, we still had quite a lot to see during that day; Bottega Veneta was one of those designers who put together very interesting outfits, playing with a color pallete that varied from light blue, brown, light gray, to a purply plum; testing on different kinds of materials as we see a lot of wool,cashmere and cotton. A very masculine collection that mixed together elegant evening-wear and sportswear.
Iceberg takes it to another level, bringing a dark range seen from many other designers this season – Xander Zhou for instance – and fusing it with streaks of bright colors; just like a prism of light in the dark. Geometric shapes are also taken into account: Squares, straight lines and diamonds are seen in a few of the slim-fit sweaters and paired with slender trousers to maximize the vision and almost creating a live painting-effect. Minimal yet incredibly striking.
Missoni goes back looking for a more heritage look to the collection, a mix of elegance and masculity toned down by the everyday-feel of the denim range, taken care by the brand Jean Machine, which made the five-pocket jeans and the denim jacket. The color pallete for the collection reminds of the colors of the earth and the mountains. 50 shades of brown and light grey took over for Missoni, leaving behind darker colors such as Black and Charcoal.
And at last, one of my favourite Italian designers; Salvatore Ferragamo makes an U-turn from the S/S and comes up with an edgy collection, utilizing tougher meterials and revolving around dark colors – primarly black and navy -.
We get to see a lot of leather outwear; the super elegant trench coat and mac get a make over and become a tough all leather garment, different lenght and customized with fur are only a few of the many diamonds refined by the Italian maison. The Urban feel of the collection is made expensive by the knitwear collection that devolps vivid patterns and elegance. An absolute success in other words that can be hardly left unnoticed by the eyes of the experts, fashionistas and even the hobbists.